Villefranche-sur-Mer

Villefranche-sur-Mer is definitely my favorite place on the French Riviera. The old village descends from the rocks straight into the bay, and the beach, although small, is covered with a fine gravel instead of stones.

Villefranche-sur-Mer is located next to Nice, in the direction of Monaco. During the 19th century numerous crowned heads and aristocrats from England and Russia came to the town to rest and relax. This is where one of the most expensive houses in the world stands – the Villa Leopolda, built on the orders of the King of Belgium, Leopold II, for his young mistress. And in the cellars of Villa Nellcote, the Rolling Stones recorded their famous album, Exile on Main St. Guitarist Keith Richards rented this villa in 1971.

Villefranche-sur-Mer at a glance

• Where: on a deep bay between Nice and Cap Ferrat, 6 minutes from Nice by train.
• Don’t miss: the old town and the Rue Obscure, the Cocteau chapel, the citadel and the harbor.
• Beaches: the Plage des Marinières (fine gravel, calm water) and the quieter Plage de la Darse.
• Best view: from the road above the town, by the Madonne Noire bus stop.

It is one of my 5 medieval towns on the French Riviera worth seeing, and the start of the coastal path around Cap Ferrat, with the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild nearby.

How to get to Villefranche-sur-Mer?

To get to Villefranche-sur-Mer, just take the regional TER train from Nice, or take bus 15 or 80 (€1.70) or bus 600 (€2.20 in the ZOU! app or €2.60 from the driver). The train takes only 6 minutes, while the bus takes about 15 minutes. And that’s all it takes to find yourself in a fairy-tale place. The railway station is located directly above the beach – heading to the right will take you to the Old Town, and going further up the hill will get you to the citadel where the town hall and a hotel are currently situated.

The citadel in Villefranche-sur-Mer (Citadelle Saint-Elme), built between 1550 and 1561, was to protect the war fleet of the Duke of Savoy, Emanuel Filibert (Emanuele Filiberto di Saboia). The structure was the most important element in the defensive system of the coast of the Duchy of Savoy.

When visiting Villefranche’s Old Town you can not miss the passage under the buildings, the Rue Obscure. It’s a bit scary and has a medieval atmosphere. The entrance is right next to the La Mère Germaine restaurant (7 Quai de l’Amiral Courbet), which I can also recommend. On the harbor, don’t miss the small Saint-Pierre chapel, decorated by Jean Cocteau in 1957 for the local fishermen (paid entry). It’s also worth walking around the citadel along its walls, which are right by the sea. You will then reach the yacht harbor where there is an oceanographic observatory and the younger part of the village. A few centuries ago the harbor served as a port for the navy, and these historic docks on the Quai de la Corderie are still used today; scenes of the James Bond film Never Say Never Again were shot near them.

The beach at Villefranche-sur-Mer

The beach at Villefranche is right next to the Promenade des Marinières, where you can also leave your car (payable). The beach is not sandy, but also not rocky as it is in Nice – instead there is a fine gravel where you can walk freely without special shoes. The same type of material is in the water. An additional advantage is the lack of waves, the water here is nice and calm. One of the attractions of the beach are the small fish that can be fed bread like doves ;) – just stand by the rocks and throw some food into the water.

It is worth equipping yourself with a mask, snorkel, and diving fins, because the waters of the bay provide excellent visibility down to the bottom. But you have to be careful – it gets deep not very far from the shore. The Marinières beach is crowded for most of the day in summer; few tourists know the small Plage de la Darse, hidden behind the old port, where the coastal path towards Nice begins.

Villefranche is a quieter alternative to Nice for a stay, with sea views from many hotels: see hotels in Villefranche-sur-Mer. The hotel links go to Booking.com: if you book through them we earn a commission, at no extra cost to you (learn more).