Èze – the most beautiful medieval village on the French Riviera?

The medieval village of Èze was built over 400 m above sea level, and thanks to this fact, you can enjoy a fairytale view of the French Riviera. A walk through the narrow streets of Èze gives the impression of visiting a castle that has no end.

Èze at a glance

• Where: between Nice (about 7 miles) and Monaco, on a hilltop 1,400 feet (427 m) above the sea.
• Getting there: bus 82 or 602 from Nice to the village; the train stops only at Èze-sur-Mer, by the sea.
• How long: two to three hours, more with the walk down to the sea.
• Don’t miss: the exotic garden and its view, the lanes of the old village, the perfume factories.
• Tip: come early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the lanes are quieter.

Èze Village, lying between Nice and Monaco, is basically two villages on three levels. The lowest is Èze-sur-Mer, through which the Nice–Monaco railway line runs. 427 m higher is Èze (Èze-Village), which I describe here. This medieval village, built on the very top of a hill, is today one of the places on the French Riviera most-visited by tourists. No wonder, because the views from above are so magnificent that they are almost unreal. The village is like a castle, with thick stone walls richly covered with colorful flowers.

What to do in Èze

The medieval village of Èze Village is itself an attraction. Each building could tell you its own story, especially about the famous people who have visited Èze. One of these was Walt Disney, who stayed in a hotel occupying old tenement houses on the slope – the Château de la Chèvre d’Or (Palace of the Golden Goat). Strolling through the narrow streets, you will easily find the entrance to this luxurious hotel. Before that, however, you will pass many small shops, restaurants, galleries, and the workshops of local craftsmen.

The most valuable treasure in Eze has always been water. There is no source in the village, and water had to be carried in buckets from the outlet located at the nearby road. It was not until 1930 that the American composer Samuel Barlow financed the construction of a fountain with water in the center of the village. Èze has been connected to the main water supply system since 1952.

One of the monuments in the village is the neoclassical church of Notre Dame de l’Assomption, built in the eighteenth century. It stands on the ruins of an earlier temple and was built under the command of the Duke of Savoy, Charles Emanuel III. The interiors of the church are richly decorated – so it is worth visiting.

Two other attractions of the village are outside its historical walls. The first of these are the perfume and soap factories of the famous Galimard and Fragonard brands; at Fragonard you can see the production line for free and buy the products in the factory shop. The second attraction is the Nietzsche Path (Chemin de Nietzsche), a steep footpath down to Èze-sur-Mer by the sea, named after the philosopher who walked it while finishing Thus Spoke Zarathustra. Walking down takes about 45 minutes to an hour; take good shoes and water, and catch the train back from Èze-sur-Mer.

The Exotic garden in Èze

At the top of the hill in Èze is an exotic garden (Jardin Exotique d’Èze). This is the second most beautiful object of this type on the French Riviera, following just after the impressive exotic garden in Monaco. The garden in Èze offers, above all, an unforgettable view of the Cote d’Azur. Absolutely, you can not miss this attraction while in the village! It was the view that Friedrich Nietzsche admired while creating his most important work: Thus Spoke Zarathustra.

The exotic garden in Eze was built at the very top of the hill. Until 1706, a medieval castle stood here. Unfortunately, it was demolished on the instructions of Louis XIV during the war of succession with Spain (at that time the castle on Castle Hill in Nice, and the statue of Octavian August in La Turbie were also dismantled).

Admission to the garden costs a few euros (current prices on jardinexotique-eze.fr), but I would give twice as much to see this extraordinary view. In my opinion, the plants in this garden (mainly cacti and succulents) are just an addition and play a supporting role, like the many sculptures of women by Jean-Philippe Richard that can be admired there.

The second extraordinary attraction in the garden is the place of contemplation – a terrace among rocks where you can lie down comfortably on wooden lounges, listen to the sound of water from the artificial stream, and admire the French Riviera.  From here you can see the Cap-Ferrat peninsula, which can be reached by a picturesque walking path.

The exotic garden in Èze opens at 9am and closes between late afternoon and the evening, depending on the month; check the hours on its website before you go.

Where to eat in Èze

Restaurants in the village are not cheap, but some have unforgettable views. I recommend:

• Château Eza (Rue de la Pise) – the hotel’s restaurant, with a wonderful view from its terrace.
• Mets Vins Chics (7 Place Charles de Gaulle) – at the entrance to the village.
• La Villa d’Eze – Hôtel du Golfe (151 Avenue de Verdun).
• Restaurant Le Mas Provençal (243 Avenue de Verdun) – expensive and exclusive; book ahead.

Where to stay in Èze

The two luxury hotels of the village, the Château de la Chèvre d’Or and the Château Eza, share most of the old buildings and their views; a night there is an experience in itself. For lower prices, see all hotels in and around Èze, or stay in Nice or Villefranche-sur-Mer and come by bus. The hotel links go to Booking.com: if you book through them we earn a commission, at no extra cost to you (learn more).

How to get to the Èze-Village?

To get there from Nice it is best to take bus 82 from rue Barla. In about 30 minutes you will reach the entrance to the Old Town, and the bus ticket costs only €1.70. There is also bus 602 (formerly 112), which continues to Monaco (€2.20 in the ZOU! app or €2.60 from the driver). From Èze-sur-Mer by the sea, bus 83 goes up to the village. Just remember not to go by train, because the medieval village is a long way from its route!